{"id":20632,"date":"2017-12-21T10:37:32","date_gmt":"2017-12-21T18:37:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/wearetravelgirls.com\/?p=20632"},"modified":"2025-08-26T20:11:25","modified_gmt":"2025-08-27T03:11:25","slug":"switzerland-cheese-hike","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wearetravelgirls.com\/switzerland-cheese-hike\/","title":{"rendered":"HIKING FOR CHEESE IN SWITZERLAND"},"content":{"rendered":"

I love to hike. But, you won\u2019t see me with an overnight backpack and intimidating hiking sticks. I\u2019m more of a moderate day-hiker who enjoys trekking for epicurean rewards. In my quest to find the best \u201cfood trails,\u201d I\u2019ve located the prettiest region to hike for cheese. That region is Appenzellerland in north-eastern Switzerland. More specifically, this slice of heaven is located in the canton Appenzell Innerrhoden. Here, alpine lakes are framed by mountain peaks and green meadows are dotted with bell-wearing cattle. Welcome to a waking dreamland.<\/p>\n

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To taste the best regional cheese, you have to hike into the Appenzell Alps. There you will find dairy farms and mountain inns that sell the bold and nutty Appenzeller K\u00e4se (cheese). Below, you\u2019ll discover two hikes in the Alpstein mountain range that promise both dreamy scenery as well as tasty treats.<\/p>\n

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1) GEOLOGICAL TRAIL TO F\u00c4HLENSEE<\/h3>\n

The Geological Trail begins at the Hoher Kasten<\/a> tram station at the very top of the mountain. First, you ascend the mountain in a cableway from Br\u00fclisau (it\u2019s not cheating). Many travelers just take the cableway up to the mountain peak to enjoy the view combined with a meal at the restaurant. The hike begins at an elevation of 1,794 meters with sweeping views of the Rhine River Valley, Appenzellerland, and Lake Constance.<\/p>\n

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The trail continues downhill towards Saxer L\u00fccke, which is a gap in the mountain. As you approach the gap, you\u2019ll have an incredible view of the mountain Kreuzberge. You\u2019ll also see the alpine lake F\u00e4hlensee off to the right. And, I\u2019d venture to say, this is one of the greatest views in Switzerland.<\/p>\n

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As you descend the mountain towards the lake, you\u2019ll hear a chorus of cow bells from the valley below. Follow the signs and the sound of bells to the mountain inn Bollenwees<\/a>. Situated directly on F\u00e4hlensee, this is the place to take a break and order the regional specialty: R\u00f6sti mit Appenzeller K\u00e4se und Eier, which translates as hash browns with cheese and eggs. We were informed by a local that they serve the best R\u00f6sti in Appenzellerland.<\/p>\n

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After lunch, take the footpath around the lake to a goat dairy farm. The resident goats spend the day mountaineering and grazing around the lake. You\u2019ll likely meet a few long-haired beauties during your visit. Surrounded by boulders and fallen rock, the farm itself occupies the most enchanting spot I\u2019ve ever seen.<\/p>\n

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When you\u2019re ready to complete the hike, retrace your steps back to Bollenwees. From the mountain inn, the hike continues for two more hours downhill to Br\u00fclisau. The whole hike is 14.6 km and takes 5.5 to 6 hours. The vast majority of this hike is downhill, which is easy from a fitness perspective, but your knees will definitely feel it by the end.<\/p>\n

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2) WASSERAUEN TO SEEALPSEE AND \u00c4SCHER<\/h3>\n

This perfect day hike begins in Wasserauen. Take the dirt trail (not the paved path) to the alpine lake Seealpsee. It takes about 1.5 hours to reach Seealpsee. It begins steeply, but then plateaus in a beautiful alpine pasture where horned cattle graze. As you hike between dairy farms, you\u2019ll have several opportunities to purchase cheese directly from the farmers.<\/p>\n

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After you circle the lake, ascend the steep trail for one hour to the mountain inn \u00c4scher<\/a>. Berggasthaus \u00c4scher is one of the most photogenic places in Switzerland. The view of the wooden inn pressed up against the mountain is reason enough to climb up here. It\u2019s something out of a fairy tale. Once you\u2019ve taken too many photos, settle in and order a slab of cheese and some local beer. The inn might be packed, but the service is swift.<\/p>\n

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From the mountain inn, the trail continues for about 20 minutes to the mountain station Ebenalp Seilbahn. You\u2019ll pass through Wildkirchli, three interlinked caves, before reaching the cableway station. Interestingly, these caves were inhabited by Paleolithic Neanderthals (~45,000 to 30,000 BC). In the early 20th century, archaeologists performed several excavations here and found ancient bones and prehistoric tools. From the caves, it\u2019s a 10-15 minute hike uphill to the station. To complete the loop, simply catch the next aerial cableway down to Wasserauen. The hike is 7 km and takes 3.5 hours (hiking time only).<\/p>\n

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SECRET BRINE<\/h3>\n

So, you\u2019re probably thinking, what makes this cheese so special. Well first, before you even take a bite, you\u2019ll experience \u201clove at first smell.\u201d After savoring the aroma, you\u2019ll taste something bold, spicy, and truly unique. The flavor is attributed to the quality of the milk. The dairy cows only feed on grass, hay, and maize plants, and they spend half the year grazing in the mountains. In addition to the quality of the dairy, it\u2019s the herbal brine recipe that contributes to the flavor. It\u2019s composed of a variety of herbs, roots, leaves, and flowers from the region. But, we\u2019ll never really know why it\u2019s so delicious, because the Appenzeller folk keep the recipe a secret.<\/p>\n

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LEARNING ABOUT APPENZELLER K\u00c4SE<\/h3>\n

If you\u2019re interested in learning more about the Appenzeller cheese-making process, you can visit the Appenzeller Schauk\u00e4serei in Stein<\/a>. You can observe every step of the process and learn about how cheese-making and tradition are synonymous in this region. The entrance is free. There is also an adjoining restaurant that sells cheese platters and fondue. They are quite generous with the cherry schnapps, so you might feel a bit tippy after eating the fondue.<\/p>\n

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TIPS FOR PLANNING A TRIP TO APPENZELLERLAND<\/h3>\n

Stay in the town of Appenzell. It\u2019s a charming town and there\u2019s a nice selection of restaurants to choose from. You can also stay in Gais and Hundwil. Time your trip with a local festival, such as a cattle drive. Locals will be clad in their traditional attire, which is a treat to see. Buy a \u201cSwiss motorway sticker\u201d or \u201cvignette\u201d for 40 CHF (approx. 41 USD), if you\u2019re driving in Switzerland.<\/p>\n

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Do you love to hike for food? Have you discovered any food trails? Please share your favorite hiking-foodie experiences in the comments below! <\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Want to share your own travel tips by guest writing for We Are Travel Girls? Go to our<\/i><\/b> Contribute<\/i><\/b><\/a> page for guidelines and to submit your article.<\/i><\/b><\/p>\n

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